How to True a Bicycle Wheel: Step-by-Step Guide to Fix Wobbles

Written by: Nick Cowie | June 13, 2026 | Time to read: 5 min

Wheel truing is the process of adjusting the tension of the spokes on your bike wheels. These tension adjustments make sure your wheels spin in a straight line and that they are perfectly circular. There are two different types of truing that both need to be done properly for your wheels to spin perfectly. 

• Lateral truing: A lateral true is done to keep the wheels rolling in a straight line. This is the type of truing that should be prioritized and done first. Each spoke is either on the right side of the hub, pulling the rim in a given direction. Truing makes sure the spoke tensions on both sides are even. This fixes the side-to-side wobbling feeling by pulling a rim back to the center line. 
  
  
• Radial Truing: Any issue with up-and-down movement or hopping of your wheel will require radial truing. This is done when the tension is thrown off-kilter, and your wheel is no longer a perfect circle. If you notice an egg-shaped wheel or bumpy ride, you might need to radially true your wheel. If done correctly, the distance from axle to rim will be the exact same in all directions. 

Chances are, you can feel the problem with your wheel, but to fix it, you need to physically locate it and decide how to fix it. To find the wobble, set up your bike, preferably on a bike stand, so the wheel can spin with no interruptions. If you don’t have a wheel truing stand, just flip your bike upside down. Next, set up an indicator, which is typically a zip tie. Place the tie around the fork or chainstay, depending on which wheel you are examining. Get the zip tie as close to the rim as you can without touching it. 

Once you’re all set up, it’s time to find the wobble! Note that if you don’t have a zip tie, you can watch the brake pads during this part as an alternative. This works on both rim brake and disc brake bikes. To locate lateral issues, begin to spin the wheel and watch where the rim starts to move closer to the zip tie. Mark on the wheel the starting and ending point of the wobble. For radial issues, mark the area where the wheel hops upward, away from the hub. Once you are confident that you have the full range of the issue, it’s time to fix it. 

When you have a targeted problem area, you can begin to true your wheel. Your goal is to even out the spoke tension across the board so the wheel rolls straight with no wobbles or hops. To get the job done, you will need a spoke wrench. It becomes easier to succeed and prevent rim damage if you have a spoke tension meter, but it is not completely necessary. 

• Lateral truing:Note which side of your indicator the rim hits when it spins. Find the closest spoke nipple anchored to the opposite side of the side that hits. All you need is a quarter to half turn with your spoke key. If you feel like you are pushing the spoke tension limits, loosen the spokes anchored to the same side of the hub that the rim hits. Start with small turns to avoid rim damage and continue until the rim stays straight. Alloy rims are more likely to bend, while carbon rims can even crack.

• Radial truing: Fixing a radial issue is similar, with some slight changes. Once you identify the radial deviations in relation to the hub, you will have your target spokes. The section where the rim moves inward or outward will be your target area. Try to locate the spoke nipples in the middle of that zone and tighten the same number on each side by a quarter to a half turn. Always check your lateral true again after you complete the radial true. 

• Relieve tension: Your wheel will naturally build up tension when its spokes are adjusted. Grab the parallel pair of spokes on each side and squeeze them together. Do this for all of the spokes to relieve spoke tension, then check the truing again to make sure it was not affected.